Day 3 & 4 - Fourteen Omelletes - Valiazheekal to Kumarakom, via Thotapally, Karumadi, Pallathuruthy & Alappuzha

Day 3: Valiazheekal - Thrikunnapuzha - KV Jetty - Thotapally - Puthenchira
 

NOTE : Pictures courtsey Mathew Vurghese, Jibin Thomas & Murugan Krishnan

Sunrise, as we said good bye to Valiazheekal.

We woke up at 3:00AM, after the morning brew moved to get to launching spot that was may be 100meters away. It was 4:00AM when we were ready to roll the trolleys and we had help from Anish, who had come early to see us off. The jetty next to the Valiazheekal School was at a corner leading to the sea and a kilometre wide backwater in the front. The launch had to factorize large number of fishing boats and trawlers going for their daily job, very close to the launch jetty. The LED headlamps all of us were using had a White light in the front and 2 red blinkers at the back. We launched as 2 groups, crossing the boat channel for the far side of the backwaters and then turning north. 

"Break time", Kayankulam Kayal.

One of the best stretches of the backwaters in the south is Kayankulam Kayal and being dark, that view was missed. We cherished this stretch the last expedition as it was early morning when we crossed Valiazheekal and headed to Vetethukadavu as the halt point. We headed north, with the Tsunami bridge as the waypoint, passing the bridge, we took the east side of the Kayal. Stopped at multiple points to take pictures and pick on the dry fruits. The youngest member of the team took off and could only be seen as speck on the horizon, which gave jitters. Kayaking is a safe sport when done in a group or in tandem. We struggled to locate the next landmark; Kayankulam Thermal Power Plant, with its four majestic towers that would indicate the northern tip of the Kayal. Finally it looms over the horizon as Murugan recollected how his Father was involved in its construction.

Kayankulam Thermal Plant in the horizon.

The low tide should have ebbed by the time we completed the 13KM run, to reach the northern end of the Kayankulam Kayal, and were surprised to see Pallana  River, emptying into the Kayal at reasonable speed. We moved on hoping to catch a local Kapikada, as the time was past 830AM and calories were high on everyone’s mind. We stopped at Coir Village, which is on the canal bank Breakfast. Being a resort, we initially got a shock, saying food was limited. Fortunately, they accommodated ten of us, along with the other guest. The team trickled in with Jibin and Murugancoming at the tail end; it was close to 10, when the group started again.

Breakfast at Coir Village, Thrikunnapuzha.

Pallana river, is were in 2007, had met two oars men in their late 60's; Kasimka & Arjun, buddies for life who plied goods on these waters for 40 years. Arjun had passed away and Kasimka was still in touch; meeting them was the inspiration for planning this and the previous expeditions. 

Arjun & Kasimka.

At KV Jetty, Pallana River, with Arjun(Right) & Kasimka(Middle)

We moved to see why Pallana River was flowing so fast! The entire watershed system in Kerala called Kuttnad has 6-7 rivers emptying their water. Kuttanad has 2 openings to let this water run to the sea; Taneermukkam Bund, in the north and Thrikunnapuzha Locks in the south. Taneermukkam was closed few weeks back and all the excess water was making it out thought Thrikannapuzha locks, giving us a Class-I rapid upstream to tackle. The first few who tried crossing the lock were swept back and then Mathew tried crossing right at the centre of the flow, and he succeeded. One by one, we took Mathew's path and crossed over! Eight of us were on the other side and two more of our folks; Jibin & Kaushiq were yet to cross the lock and swirled nightmare for us. Jibin was kayaking a broad 11 footer that we fondly called "Kattabomman", Kaushiq on a 11 footer with very low clearance, thanks to all the gear Kaushiq hauled (he lost few of them, water line improved)! Self and Mathew climbed up the lock with a rope in hand, in case our buddies needed help. Finally when we had them in view we asked them to give a try and with cheer from the others on the other side Kaushiq pulled though. Our fears were now for Jibin, he was slow and steady, as he cruised to the other side. 

There comes the coconut; Pallana River.

We moved on to find the sun baking hot, until we found a person on the banks, who was willing to give two tender coconuts. The entire troupe jumped to the offer and we got tender coconut for all; for a cost! We moved from shade to shade as the Sun was at its peak and around 1:00PM, we came to Thottapally. The Puthenchira Church was another kilometre or so away; another 30 minutes of paddling in hot sun.

Puthenchira Church.

Gopu Keshav, cheering at the last leg.

Gopu Keshav and Anoop were at the Church waving at us and cheering the tired paddlers. Few of us had other plans and headed to the other side of the river bank for a well-deserved swim and washing of clothes. It was around 2:00PM when we crossed over to the Church for a quick lunch. The lunch was amazing for the fish, beef curry and mussels fry.

Cooling off, opposite to Puthenchira Church.

We then proceeded for the meeting organized by "Green Roots Nature Conservation Society" volunteers at Thotapally beach. The meet was one of the best for the program was organized by Amurtha Sebastian of Mathrubhumi Seed. Amurtha had introduced us to the sea turtles of Thotapally, during our last expedition and was one of the founders of Green Roots along with Saji Chitralayam. Green Roots had successfully collected and hatched sea turtle eggs, the last season.

The interaction at Thotapally.

The meeting at the beach was the best we had, with local panchayat members, other founder and active members of Green Roots, International club representatives from JCI & Rotary. Of all the interactions we had in the thirteen day trip, Thotapally stands out; seriousness of the crowd and our feeling of fulfilment being part of the sea turtle conservation effort. We carried a memento for the Green Roots team and also gave them a copy of "The Birds of the Indian Subcontinent".

Sahi Chitralayam and team from Green Roots

The clean up, after the meeting at Thotapally.

After the meeting we planted trees in the green area of the beach and did a thrash collection which netted close to 40 discarded glass bottles.

Sunset at Thotapally.

We marvelled at the sunset and sought refuge at a local tea shop for the next one hour, relaxing in the company of a drunkard, who entertained us with all antics. The number of tea and banana's we had as a group become a counting challenge for the shop owner. 

Accounting by counting Banana skin.

We headed back to church compound and settled down, there was no running water, yet water was available in plenty from the river. After dinner we pitched tents for the first time as there was not enough room for all. Pappu, who got a room for himself was asked to move out as a gunny bag of grains stored in the same room had tell-tale marks of a rodent visitor! It was a tiring day and we did 25KM.

Pitching tent at Puthenchira Church courtyard.

Day 4; Puthenchira- Karumadi - Pallathuruthy - Kumarakom

We woke up at 3:00AM and departed from Puthenchira Church jetty by around 4:00AM. Pappu, the youngest member of the team had an upset stomach; thanks to the mussels fry. He had cramps and was struggling to paddle. 

Fullmoon near Pallathuruthy.

It was a full moon night and we paddled on past the Buddha statue at Karumadi, fondly believed as the local guardians and called as Karumadikuttan. On the way Rakshit disappeared from the group and came back after a refreshing tea. Rakshit had gone to a Thycavu (Prayer mosque) for using the toilet and was also offered tea. Such simple acts of being treated like a fellow being is what we marvelled all along the trip. Neither caste nor religion or economic class mattered, when we asked for help!

The kapikada at Pallathuruthy.

Competing with locals.

Hunger took hold and enquiry started about Kapikada. It was 7:30AM, when we reached Pallathuruthy that the group took over a local kapikada to the extent, the owner risked antagonizing his regular patrons. After loads of Putt and Parota, we left Pallathruthy at 8:30AM. Murugan and my-self headed to see if we could locate Padmini Chechi; who was kind enough  to give us a place to sleep and tea. By the time when we searched and located Padmin Chechi's house and knocked on the door, there was no response. Neighbours came enquiring and they told that she had left for the fields. After handing over some gifts for her, we joined the group for the next halt at the entrance to the magnificent Vembanadu Kayal. 

House boats moored near Alapuzha.

We paddled on and saw traffic in the canals close to Alappuzha. Houseboats were racing each other and creating wake that looked monstrous for folks like us who have only paddled inland. It became such an issue that we shouted at few of them, when our request to slow down was not heeded. All of us felt that it’s a tragedy waiting to happen. Tourism in Alappuzha (backwaters of Kerala) has become one of the biggest curse; engine exhaust contaminating the water, Sewage and other waste generated aboard the boats being dumped into the canals and no oversight by any government or self-appointed body; all of these factors will eventually kill this industry is what we felt. 

Entering Vembanadu Kayal; Marthandom Kayal on far right.

Reeds growing along Marthandom Kayal.

We moved on and kept asking how far was the Kayal (Vembanadu lake) and it was 10:00AM when we reached it. We could see the tip of Marthandam Kayal at our 2'O-Clock, and we decided to aim for it. It took us thirty minutes to reach the reed fringed Marthandam Kayal. The banks of the Marthandom Kayal are full of reeds and one cannot miss the reed warbler calling from its hideout. What made one sick was the garbage that was dumped from houseboats. We wondered which boat had dumped it and who the tourists were, on that boat. We felt that the tourists should take more responsibility in hiring boats that leave very little environmental impact. We retold the story of how the Kayals were reclaimed by Shri Murikan, who is considered the Father of Kayal paddy cultivation. From Marthandom Kayal, we took a NE bearing and set off for Kumarakom. As the sun climbed to its peak, the heat was building up; adding to the agony was the lack of any breeze in the Kayal. 

Never ending Vemabanadu Kayal.

Water looked still and the white cross pillar leading to the Kumarakom jetty looked never reachable. Once in a while a house boat would cruise by, with the Driver at the wheel and no other visible soul. We paddled on and the White Cross pillar would look as far as when we left Marthandom Kayal. Your body tends to give up as the drive becomes so long, it’s just the mind that gets you going, one paddle at a time. It was past 12:00PM when the white cross pillar looked close; to the left one could see the Muhamma Kumarakom ferry coming in. Some of us decided to race with the ferry to keep the mind going. As the ferry got past the Holly Cross pillar, we were few hundred meter behind; that was not bad for we had reached our destination. Taking cover of the first available shade we emptied the water bottle; it was more than 2 hours that we were in open sun and continuously paddling without a break, completing a distance of 13Kilometers of Vembanadu Kayal. 

We moved past ladies cleaning up the canal embankment as part of the NREG scheme, heading in the direction of Mathew's house. The ferry that we had raced was now turning to make its return to Muhamma, blocking the canal. Crossing the Bridge next to the Kumarakom Jetty and going past the temple on the left, we pulled over. Anandan Chetan (elder borther) came to help us move the kayaks to Mathew's home. We were all tired and the need to have lunch was high on the agenda. 

Kudumbashree hotel at Kumarakom.

Waiting for the much needed lunch.

The Kudumbashree run lunch place was mobbed as we settled in after a day of demanding kayaking. It’s amazing how women self-help groups in Kerala have come together to make a difference in every walk of life. The place where we went for lunch was also run by a Kudumbashree unit, serving good food at reasonable rates. We feasted on fish fry and omelette, buttermilk; before heading back to Mathew's place. Mathew's home was special for all the good things we had missed for the last 4 days.

Handing over the book at Governmet High School, Kumarakom.

Post lunch we headed to the Kumarakom Government High School for the session. It was past 4:00PM, when we came back. This was the same school were Mathew had studied and as he got up during the team introduction, there was a huge applause from the audience. In the evening we again trouped to Kudumbashree hotel for the evening tea and  as we were leaving, Raj was asked "Who will pay for the 14 omelettes?"!  Initially we thought he had all the fourteen; later we realized that six of us had shared it.

"This is what happens when you have fourteen omelletes".

Anandan Chetan was kind enough to get us some toddy that 'cooled' us down. The evening dinner was a spread of Dosha, Appam and all kinds of non-vegetarian stuff. Evening hush confirmed that the next day was Mathew's birthday and Adarsh volunteered to get a cake that we all wanted to cut, before our departure the next day. We agreed to wake up next morning at 3:00AM for the day was long and went to sleep. Day 4 had come to a closure at Mathew's place, we covered a total of 33 Kilometres, it was tiring!

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