Day 9 & 10 - The locks, regulators and tempers!

Day 9: Edaithiruthy to Chavakkadu, via Thriprayar, Kandashankadavu & Chetuva.

NOTE: Pictures courtesy Mathew Vurghese, Jibin Thomas & Murugan Krishnan

The streets were completely empty and the night was peaceful, either we were too tired to hear the dogs bark or they did no bark at all! We got up with constant walking near the tent and  realized that the local hotel owner was walking to the tap in the church compound, back and forth. Few of us went to see what the guy was preparing and were surprised to see "Kattipathri"; a rice cake delicacy, not commonly available. We had one, then two and finally ended up having twenty of them getting packed for the trip.

Kattipathiri - Local delicacy  at Edaithiruthy.

Paddling along, south of Thriparayar.

The coffee that day was a damp squib; all of us had Kattipathiri and Tea at the same place. It was close to 5:00AM, when we moved the Kayaks through the Edathiruthy market to the canal. The Canal here is neat, as the locals care for them. We met the local shop owner who was getting ready for the days chores. He shared how they avoid duping anything into the canal and try to incinerate garbage. With headlights we launched the kayaks into the narrow dark canal. The advanced party had seven and they had gone a little ahead and the second group had three. Kaushiq suddenly called from the back as he hit a submerged pylon of an overhead bridge that was in disuse. The impact literally got his kayak to go over and he had managed to stabilize the situation. It was a scary start to the day as we pushed further. The canal was narrow with large trees and overgrowth on both banks; it was not long that we entered the main river; wide and beautiful. We pushed on appreciating the arriving day accompanied with cacophony of sounds from wetland birds.

Murugan chatting with local racing boat owners, south of Thriparayar.

On to our left we saw two boats moored on the banks and their shape indicated they were special. We pulled close to have a better look and the small house situated on the bank came alive. The two boats were used for racing and had won many accolades; we exchanged our thought on hull design and said our goodbyes to the family.

Thriprayar Temple, one of the few Ramayana stream temples in Kerala.

We moved on and to our left came the famous Thriparayar Temple; one of the few in Kerala that represent the epic Ramayana. Kerala temples are more aligned to the epic Mahabharata with Lord Krishna as the main deity in most temples. The morning temple puja procession was going around with percussion and Rakshit could not resist pulling over. He scaled the temple wall to reach the main compound  as the others pushed on for the Kappikada (local tea shop).

Backwaters south of Chettuva

Here the river is palm fringed and inhabited on both the sides, yet much cleaner than in south Kerala. We kept checking with locals and it was near the Thalikulam Muttichur Bridge that we stopped for breakfast. It was a tiny place right next to the Madrasa that could barely accommodate three or four people inside. We trickled in as other reached the Thalikulam Muttichur Bridge.

Beautiful house near Kandashankadavu, Trichur.

We later heard that Rakshit after offering his prayers at the Temple tried jumping over the fence to get back to his Kayak and was stopped by the security guards. They took him for a psychologically disturbed person, trying to kill himself by jumping into the river. Murugan and others persuaded the security folks and Rakshit was back in the Kayak. After the breakfast we pushed on crossing Kandashankadavu Bridge, our destination was Chetuva Backwaters. The breakfast was not that great and Kandashanakadavu offered a better alternative, which we had missed.

Backwaters, south of Chettuva.

We pushed on and slowly as we made our way to Chettuva backwaters. All along the bank, huge coconut palms swayed in the breeze and stretched as far as the eyes could see. Occasionally you would see a house, jetty or a place of worship. Fishermen were in plenty and would be amazed to see the group on boats they had never seen. Some of them wanted the Paddle, some wanted the Kayaks as they imagined innovative ways they could be put to use.

Kajaman resorts, Chettuva.

National Highway over the backwaters, Chettuva.

It was close to noon as we saw the Kajaman Resort and the bridge further down, which was our destination for the day. The mangrove forest and the backwaters here make for an amazing view. Gopu and Anoop were helping us land and Dani had pulled past all of us to make the first landing. The day was taking its toll, it was hot and the sun was already baking! We pulled into the tourism complex and restaurant next to the bridge. The place was littered with clam shells, making it very risky to walk bare foot. One by one the kayaks and the paddlers were hauled up the jetty as and when they arrived. The boats were plucked and placed neatly as we settled in for the day.

Meeting with local representatives, KTDC, Chettuva.

The post lunch program was lined up with the local MLA and nature conservation folks. We did not feel comfortable at the KTDC property as it lacked basic facilities. Few of us took time to wash clothes and have a shower. After lunch the need for a better place grew louder and two of our folks went with the Mathrubhumi team to scout for a place near Chavakaddu. The team came back having identified an Ayurvedic Resort after Chavakaddu town, the time was past 5:00PM and another six kilometers to go.

The mangroves the group planted at Chettuva.

After a little bit of confusion we decided to move and after planting mangrove saplings at the boat jetty, we pushed on for Chavakaddu. As soon as we entered the Conolly canal, there was a lock and no operator to help us pass thorough. Kaushiq had taken contact details of the local MLA from our last event; he called him seeking help to open the locks. The locks at Chettuva are electrically operated and need one person to manage it.

The locks at Chettuva, heading north.

The lock operator had gone home for some personal work and small kids took the initiative to get him. It was festival as a lot of folks congregated to know what the fuss was; all of them ready to help. They were astonished to know that we were kayaking from so far away and that; the waterways could be used to travel! Few of us got help and moved on to the other side. Kaushiq had a point that if the waterways have to be navigable, the locks should be operational. The lock operator appeared and with cheer from the crowd, let the second group in. We thanked all of them for their help and moved on. We had hardly paddled for half a kilometer when the weeds cut us off. What surprised us most was that a section of people who had helped us at the lock were also there.

Local kids, who helped us to carry our kayaks over Hyacinth filled waters, north of Chettuva.

They knew about the weeds and had come on two wheelers to help us. We pulled the kayak ashore and launched them about hundred meters ahead. We said our goodbyes, paddled on as it was getting dark. Headlights were on and the red blinkers of the group going in swamp like situation looked true from some Hollywood movie. Dogs barked as we paddled on and locals came out with their torchlight to find out what the commotion was. Weeds covered at many places and we cut though as a snake making its way through water, one following the other in close quarters. It was pitch dark, when we crossed the bridge near Chavakkadu Town.  We pushed on and one could not avoid polluted water full of animal offal. It was Gopu who helped us home into the resort which we had identified. Few of us looked forward to having a hot shower for the kind of water we had paddled through.

Murugan handing over the book at the Ayurveda resort.

The Ayurvedic resort was kind enough to accommodate us as our initial requirement for one room grew to three. After the hot shower and dinner we hunkered down; Three per room, with Raj deciding to camp in a tent. It was a long day, the good thing was we covered one third of the next day’s target. The decision was to sleep till 5:00AM and leave leisurely!

Day 10: Chavakkadu to Viliancode via Punnayur & Mannalamkunnu. 

The beautiful landscape, north of Chavakkadu.

Good habits die hard and it was 4:30AM, when we all woke up. Things were slow and it was 5:45AM, when we had got all the kayaks into the Conolly canal. The landscape was amazing, it looked as though a thousand bonsai trees were floating in water, lush green and no sight of humanity. We moved on soaking in the amazing views nature had orchestrated for us. The silence was broken by Pappu who called out as he had sighted some animal. We all trouped in and were amazed to see fresh water otters on the shore. They popped their head to have a look at us and disappeared. Fresh water otters were spread across Kerala and have disappeared except for few places. Urbanization and the Malayalees desire for bigger homes are adding to habitat loss.

Rich mans filth for the poorest of people, north of Chavakkadu.

We moved on and the canal now took a sharp right turn. The call for breakfast amplified as we saw settlements, but there was no luck. What we got instead was a long stretch of canal full of decaying hyacinth and animal offal of all kind. The water here was stagnant, fowl smelling and the poorest of the society were the sufferers. These people for no action of theirs were dealing with an issue that stood at the altar of rich man’s hypocrisy. The rich have a lifestyle that indirectly pollutes and decimates nature; we were staring into that mess! This one stretch created so much soul searching that Pappu decided never to eat chicken. In a literate state as Kerala, individuals and governments are failing the society. There is no ownership for all the animal waste that’s created and there is no oversight from the Government.

Canolly Canal, en route to Veliancode.

We scuttled fast to cross this stretch of the Conolly Canal, which is straight, devoid of any human activity and flanked by coconut plantations on both the banks. We were lucky to find four peacocks as we paddled, the only knowledge about free reigning Peacocks we had was in the district of Palghat; you never know the surprises nature throws at you! We moved on and reaching Punnayur got excited to hike to a hotel, and get disappointed. Disappointed as the local hotels were tiny and served bleached wheat oily patties called "Parrota"; that is now unfortunately the state food of Kerala - having a rubber like texture without any nutritional value whatsoever! As we decided to move on, an old man was so enthralled by the Kayaks that he wanted a ride. Kaushiq obliged before the team reversed the plan. We generally do not get strangers on to the Kayak, lest something happens and we get stranded. We pushed for a short distance to stop near a bridge near Mannalamkunnu. A bunch of kids were playing and we took help from the eldest, Muhammad to watch over the kayak.

Locals at Mannalamkunnu, Mohamed, first from left.

We trouped to a hotel near the Mannalumkunnu bus stand for a great breakfast. Local youths were intrigued as always; wanted to come along to see what Kayaks were and  help us launch.The local youth we had met at Mannalamkunnu shared how they get threatened by meat sellers, when they object to offal being dumped in the water bodies. It was an hour after we had met Muhammad that we came back to the bridge and after answering the queries of the local folks, pushed for our destination Veliancode.

The canal is so lonely in this stretch; overhead bridges are pain points and advertise their arrival with foul smell. We had difficulty in crossing one particular bridge as offal dumped in gunny bags had chocked the water flow! We moved on and appreciated stretches that were absolutely clean. One dreads paddling on these waterways close to festivals as a lot of animals get culled and offal dumped in the canal. Animal offal is good manure if safely discarded; it can be buried under tree as manure. Looks like on one has duties in Kerala, yet, all of them have rights. The sun was coming to its peak; we started to inquire for our destination and chance of getting tender coconut.

Beautiful Canolly at Veliancode.

We moved on, and found Rakshit, in conversation with a lady on the canal bank. He did not know Malayalam (the local language) and she for sure had no clue of Hindi! Rakshit confidently flagged the others down for tender coconut was promised! The lady appeared with no coconuts and confirmed that this is Veliancode; Manoj's house is here, please stop! Manoj was Jibin's friend who had offered us his empty home for camping.

Campsite at Veliancode

Rahul(second from left) with his friends.

We were at our destination and the slippery slope is all that stood in our way of calling it a day. One by one, we helped each other come up and plucked the kayaks. We moved all kayaks using trolley to set up camp under a large Mango tree. The place was next to a temple, thanks to the help from local lad Rahul.

Helpful Balanchetan.

We settled down and were met by Balaksrishnan Chetan, the caretaker for Manoj's property. Balanchetan (the way he is called in short) came with tender coconuts and showed us the place. We took turns to get fresh, many of us improvising to beat the lack of power by using the well and open place to have a shower; Kerala style!               

Papu washing clothes for the first time by hand, in his life!

Lunch came with Gopu and being a Sunday, a special program was arranged in Ponnani Town, were kids from an orphanage had come to meet us. We were delighted to see a cross section of local leaders, Kaushiq’s friend Brijesh Saijal, at the school and the kids, who enjoyed our pitch. 

Kids at the local program, Ponnani.

We were informed about temporary check dams built on the canal, that we plan to paddle the next day. After the school program, we went to see first-hand, how the check dams were and did not find them concerning.  On the way back to the camp, we stopped for tea and munch some local delicacies, few packed for the folks who were at the camp. Two of our friends got into an altercation and egos got hurt! Tempers flared in the camp and things really got nearly fistful. Increasing participation was always a desire; yet different personalities that come and the friction it can create were factors we had anticipated. The challenge here was it was coming from the most unexpected quarters! We had things under control by the time the dinner was served.

Kaushiq helping the camp fire.

Raj had a family emergency, his Daughter was sick and he had to rush home. A cab was arranged for Raj to travel home in Cochin. The kayak had to be moved to the next location and Kaushiq asked Fijas, his instructor at Jellyfish club to join us. It was past dinner when Fijas joined us, he was known to all of us for he was of support for the prep sessions we did. . There was no electricity and hence we had candlelight, until Balanchetans Brother got us a LED emergency lamp, which we strung on the mango tree. Avoiding the coconut trees we pitched the tents and went to siesta! It was a long action filled day, from the Otter to the stretch filled with waste, reaching Veliancode to see tempers flare. The day was pretty easy and we covered 18KM.

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The tea of 500Rs.

We left Karumadi at 10PM and paddled towards Alappuzha. I had pried through the under growth to see if ghost really hanged around. It was a long day, leaving Vettathukadavu at 530AM, we had come to Thottapally  for the school function, leaving Karumadi after the neighbourhood function; the lack of rest was taking toll on our planned night kayaking under full moon.

As we went past the point where the canal branches off to the famous Ambalapuzha Temple, we all went into sleep kayaking. Like sleep walking, the hectic restless day was now pushing us to kayak, literally feeling asleep and directionless. Reaching 12AM, we went past rice boats converted into mini hotels; moored near Kanjippadam, when we decided to take some rest. Each rice boat was buzzing with its generators and air conditioners; we pulled into the verandah of a SNDP building, spread our sleeping mats and slipped into siesta.

Boats line both sides of Pallathuruthy Bridge, Alapuzha-Changanacherry Road, Kerala

We woke up at 2AM, and started paddling towards Alappuzha. The time was approaching 4AM and the symptoms returned; sleep kayaking started taking its toll! We ran past a gill net fisherman, who told us about a ‘tea shop’ that opens early, close to Pallathuruthy Bridge on the Alappuzha-Changanacherry Road.  As soon as we heard ‘tea shop’, our systems revived, sleep disappeared and we started paddling in synchronization towards Pallathuruthy. Reaching Pallathuruthy we saw line of tourist rice boat hotels and to our displeasure could not see the tea shop! We went scouring either banks of the river, yet there was not ‘tea shop’. Excitement now turned to despair, we decided to pull up on a jetty; the time was 4AM.

There were rows of small homes on the river bank. Hearing our commotion at the Jetty an old lady opened her front door; she came up and asked “what the issue was?” We asked her about the “tea shop” to which she replied that it would open only after 530AM. As we shared our journey, how tired we were without sleep, she offered us to come home and take some rest. She had a sense of authority to say, the kayaks would be safe and recommended that we moor it at the jetty.  Her home was tiny, the structure was completed, yet to be plastered at many places and so was the floor, there were no furniture’s, windows without window panes, the rooms were separated using sheets of clothes on a door frame that was waiting for the door! There was an incandescent bulb giving out some light as we settled into her front veranda, she came out offering 3 glasses of hot black tea saying, there was no milk. We were grateful to her and she promised to wake us up at 6AM.

L>R : Anees Madathil, Murugan Krishnan, Padmini Chechi & Vipin Ravindranath

Life is always about what comes after; at Dalavapuram we met living ghosts; at Karumadi it was imaginary! After meeting Joseph uncle at Dalavapuram, this was the second time meeting an Angel. Never lose hope!

We were woken up at sharp 6AM, with 3 glasses of black tea! We felt moved by her gesture. Here was a lady so poor that she had literally nothing in her home, being so kind to some strangers. We asked her more and she shared her name as Padmini; daily wage earner living with her son, who had well passed the knot tying age. As we prepared to paddle towards Alappuzha, one of us asked, “How much was tea worth for us that morning?” “500Rs”, came the reply! We decided to give her 500Rs as we prepared to part, she wouldn’t take! Finally, we forced her to accept our appreciation for her kindness and paddled off. A lot of her neighbors had assembled around the moored kayaks and were surprised to see us on their poor shores, were monsoon floods every year make life miserable.

Rice boats of Alapuzha, Tourism is the biggest contributor to revenue and pollution.

The world is full of good people and the lord sends us reminders. One never knows which corner you turn to be surprised by an Angel, for us, Padmini chechi(elder sister in Malayalam) was one!

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The ghost of Karumadi.

  Karumadi Kuttan and the Buddhist structure at Karumadi, Ambalapuzha, Kerala

We had started from Vettathukadavu, opposite to the NTPC plant Kayankulam, that morning around 5AM. After crossing the locks at Thrikannapuzha we halted past KV Jetty for the breakfast. This small Kappikada (local hotel) was buzzing with a lot of tourist and local patrons. We reached Thotapally by 10:30 and Mr. Saji Chitralayam(ecologist focusing on  Sea Turtle conservation) was there to help us come ashore. 

Murugan Krishnan, conducting environmental awareness session, Govt. School Thottapally, Allapuzha.

He had used his local contacts to get us a place to rest and get fresh. After lunch we headed to the Government School, Thottapally, for the session with students. The work being done by Saji Chitralayam is commendable and it was nice to see the ground swell he enjoyed with kids on the issue of Turtle conservation. 

We said our good byes to Saji and left Thottapally for Karumadi, as the sun was coming down. The event at Karumadi was the evening nighbourhood meeting and the paddling distance was for an hour or so. We landed at the Karumadi jetty, close to the statue of Buddha, locally called as “Karumadi Kuttan". The statue is carved in black granite and is revered by the locals as their village deity. The statue has its left half missing, as if, a sword had gone right through. The evening function was in the statue compound; located far off from habitation, by the canal bank and next to a thicket. The locals were trickling in as temporary lights were assembled for the interactive session. The program was the first of the 2 evening neighborhood meetings that we felt were good, the other one being Muhamma. 

It was full moon and we had planned to kayak from Karumadi to Allapuzha, in the moon light. We had seen the moon rise, bright red; seen her mellow down yellow. One of our colleague had a call to take and after the meeting we left him to have dinner, the time was past 9PM. After the program the local electrician had disconnected the power, removed all the lights; the place was now dark and we had walked back using our headlights. We came back and found our colleague in conversation with a local guy, whom we had noticed hanging around from the time we landed at the jetty. He had maintained his distance then and now, he was talking and talking. There was a dog with him that had no sense of personal space, it would come so close as if it were a pet cat and had to be shooed away every time. The guy who was silent all through the evening was now verbose, he was tall and thin, with long hair left open, an air of booze hanged around him and he had some presence (same presence that our corporate leaders put a lot of effort building). He would not let his conversation stop, the subject varied from what he did to the legends of the statue and Karumadi itself. As we pushed him to leave, he told us something spooky. He told us to look around at 12AM to see a lighted walking stone lamp. "lighted stone lamp walking"...the time was past 10 and my sense of fear rose. The locals had shared how days back, a young man had died, while collecting clams few hundred meter from where we were. He reiterated that the "walking stone lamp" was  not happy with the deceased. I could literally see grandpa narrating ghost stories to me as a kid; his encountering at night a water ghost that wanted to topple his boat loaded with harvested paddy stalks. Goosebumps appeared all over and I felt creepy as the guy disappeared into the darkness. 

We had planned to sleep until 1AM and then kayak under full moon night. I did not want my buddies to know how scared I was as they were unmoved. The fear was taking hold and I succeeded in somehow convincing that we leave Karumadi at 10PM. It was couple of days later, I shared how scared I felt that night at Karumadi. 

I am not sure if ghost do exist, but the ghost of Karumadi had got us evicted and shifted our plans!

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