Day 7 & 8 - Majestic waterways

Day 7: Fort Vypeen to Kottapuram, via Edavanakadu, Our Lady of Snow church (Manju Matha Palli) & Munambam

NOTE: Pictures courtesy Mathew Vurghese, Jibin Thomas & Murugan Krishnan

The day break

The trawlers were buzzing as early at 2:00AM, around 3:00AM we got up. It was blustery, lighting the fire for the morning coffee became a challenge. We had to take the Solo Stove near a wall to get the flame going. Half of us had pitched tents in front of the Cruz Melagres Church (Kurishingal Palli) and the other half stayed in the office building (full of mosquitos). The call for the coffee mug is the first alarm call and the last one is to announce "coffee is getting over"! We rigged the kayas and cleaned up the place to leave no trace. One by one the kayaks were lowered, the way we got in. It was the beginning of the low tide and boats were racing for the morning catch. The first group of six pushed off with their red blinkers and headlights, exactly as we had done at Valiazheekal, going to the other side of the backwaters and then turning left; all this to avoid the trawler traffic. The second batch said their goodbyes to Cruz Milagres Church a little later. We tracked north as the low tide made paddling tough.

Surise on the kayal

The stretch north of Vypeen is the loneliest of places in Kerala, there is not a light to be seen or a soul, for kilometres. Here, the backwaters are wide and the huge prawn pens on either side are thinly populated. The previous year we had run out of water, creating a panic situation. We paddled on and we could barely make the blinkers from the first group that had departed earlier. The backwaters we were paddling had two openings, one at Kochi and the other at Munambam, to the north. The tide was against us and we were paddling with the hope that it will become favourable at some point. This stretch of the back waters is verdant and scenic. Many places the water is hardly few inches at low tide and you could get stuck. The primary activity around Nairambalam and Edavanakadu is prawn farming. They put on bright lights of Red and Green next to the enclosure to attracts prawn seedlings, which are trapped and reared. This approach is traditional and still holds well in this part of Kerala. It was getting past 7:00AM, no tea and the endless backwaters played games. We need to push, even when our body gives up, like trekking and mountaineering, kayaking is also a mind game.

Fishermen's shack, on Chinese fishing nets.

We were now one group, having caught up with the others who had piled on to the banks. Little did we know that they had hit a jackpot; a toddy tapper was trapped by their honey words to part with his fresh toddy! For 500Rs they had filled their bellies and all available bottles to the brim. There was so much that they were going around and offering it to others who had missed the Chagara (Malayalam word for sardines run that happens on the Kerala coast, giving bounty to the local fishermen). We moved on and finally the backwaters were getting narrower, signally the arrival off Pattanam and Chendamangalam lake. We were now desperate for a Kappikada, hunger was taking its toll and we asked anyone whom we could call on.

Our Lady of Snow (Manju Matha Palli), Munambam.

The surprising thing we saw in this stretch was that the Chinese fishing nets that were ubiquitous here, during our last trip were all gone. We got to know later that the National Waterway Authority of India, had got them removed by compensating the fishermen, to make the channel wide enough for boats. We paddled on and reached the first bridge past which, a lady ran a Kappikada were we had halted last time. The shop was closed for good and locals asked us to paddle further down. Our stop was at the "Our Lady of Snow Church (Manju Matha Palli)" and we pushed on with the hope that it would arrive soon. It was past 9:00AM, when we reached Manju Matha Palli and were glad to see the local panchayat representative, a very passionate lady called Prasitha. Legend has it that Tipu Sulthan, the Lion of Mysore over ran the area and locals fearing for their lives took shelter at the Church. As Tipu's soldiers came calling, the place was covered in snow, helping protect the refugees and hence the name.

Ms. Praseetha and our buddies at the Kappikada.

Praseetha chechi (elder Sister) helped us land the kayaks in Church compound and took us to a local Kappikada that was well stocked. Munambam harbour is close by and a lot of boat yards line the waters here, one of the reasons, the Kappikada was buzzing. After the good breakfast we went back to the landing point and slowly our other colleagues trickled in. The Mathrubhumi reporter and photographers had come to cover the Suchitwa Mission event; we were to attend past 11:00AM. There were other media representatives who had come to cover too. We had communication from the organizers about kids waiting for us at a nearby jetty, and to proceed there. The Mathrubhumi folks were holding us back for the right shot, delaying our departure. This caused a minor friction with the reporter and photographers; we decided to go to the jetty, not wanting to tax the school kids who had come to receive us on a hot day.

Lalu Alex, cine actor from Kerala, recieving the book from Ms. Vasuki, Director of Suchitwa Mission, Govt. of Kerala.

Nature club members at the function.

On arrival at the Jetty we were surprised that more than hundred students from the local school, Nature club had come with banners to receive us. We pulled the kayak ashore and started briefing the kids in groups. After the briefing, we headed to the public function in a procession. The public function was graced by the Government Officers and one Cine artist. A waste processor was being inaugrated by the panchayath and there were lot of speakers who called for waste seggregation at source. After the public function , accompanied by the Panchayat representative Ms. Praseetha, we headed back to the Kayaks. Though she asked us to have lunch, the late breakfast made us think otherwise. Before we left Praseetha handed over a bottle of homemade wine to Dani, as her parting gift. She was one of the unique public representatives we meet in our day to day life, an action figure, who is very committed and shies away from publicity. We said our goodbyes to Praseetha Chechi and pushed towards Munambam, the time was close to 2:00PM.

Danni paddling past trawlers, Munambam.

Munambam is a major fisheries port and a lot of trawlers call home. The place is full of mechanized fishing boats and boat yards. We were shocked to see paint cans and paint being dumped from a boat into the waterways, as we paddled towards Munamabam. We confronted the guys and the got scared with Rakshti shouting in Hindi, thinking we were from the law enforcement. We told them how they were digging their own plates and foced them to retrive the ones that had not sunk. This is one of the biggest issues in India, we dont care! Callous behaviour towards the environment is matched by lax implementation of toughtest rules in the world. One could only imagine how much heavy metal gets dumped into these waters from all the boat yards for want of awareness and lack of recycling support.

Mr. Lenin with family.

The next destination was close to Munambam Mosque, were we had ran into a fisherman specializing in Chinese nets, who had invited us home for tea. This was during last expeditinon and we later foundout Mr. Lenin, was also an artist of amazing talent. This time around, we were carrying all art materials for him, some 10 meters of Canvas, Painting brushes, Paint and Palette.

Murugan handing over the painting kit to Mr. Lenin.

We had not informed Mr. Lenin; he was tracking us in the newspaper and was sure we would call upon him. He and his wife were so happy for the art material, something that would help him retrace his skills. Mr. Lenin showed one of the ornamental fish he had kept in a pen and decided to set it free, as a mark of his joy on our visit. After tea and taking pictures, we said our goodbyes to Mr. Lenin and his family.

Group picture with the fisherman artist, Mr. Lenin.

We turned right and took the eastward arm heading to Kottapuram; were NW3 (National Waterway 3), ends. Going past the CMFRI demonstration clams farm we paddled on to Kottapuram, the low tide was at its peak and paddling was looking very strenuous; compounded by the missed lunch!

Murugan showing what CMFRI was culturing near Munambam.

Our destination for the day was the Raj's farmhouse that was a kilometre or more from the Kottapuram market. The currents were getting stronger; paddling was one paddle at a time, hugging as close to the banks, to avoid the full force of the receding tides.

St. Thomas Church, Munambam.

We crossed the Kottapuram bridge and could see on the other side the Kottapuram Jetty, were we had finished the last expedition in 2014. We pushed on past the fort that was being restored and took a right after passing the Kottapuram-Thuruthipuram Bridge, as Raj frantically enquired for his farmhouse through the approach he was trying for the first time. 

The bridge at Kottapuram.

Paddling was becoming very tough and we took multiple breaks, searching for the farmhouse. Some of us recalled why we need to push our minds than our bodies, during a Himalayan trek, the guide kept saying, one step at a time; think only about that step, not how far your destination is! Finally, past 5:00PM, we located it on the other side of a large open water body and one by one we pulled ashore. Every one of us was exhausted, the days 30KM leg was too tiring for all of us; the tides had shown us how powerful they are.

Mathew relaxing after the hard day @ Raj's farm.

Gopu and Anoop were there with the lunch and so were few of Raj's friends. We digged into the lunch as vultures that had not had a meal for days. Raj's farm was just the right kind for camping; it had a good toilet and lot of open space to pitch tents. This team had been put together and performing, without going through the forming, sotrming & norming stages. Tension was brewing at the camping ground due to some exchanges that happend at the public function. All electronic gadgets were sent to the Farm caretaker’s house for recharging. We settled in, got fresh, few of us took a nap on the hammock and finally there was a lavish dinner and Raj's friends for company. All homemade stuff, appam, stew, chicken curry, Fish curry, cutlet, fried rice and to top it all...yes...pudding! 

Camping at Raj's farm.

We had completed NW3 and tomorrow we were to enter uncharted waters. The fire wood for the Solo stove had exhausted and before we pitched tents, all of us joined to collect fire wood from Raj's property. It’s been a tiring day and you can see folks already asleep on hammocks, not bothered by mosquitos or the dew that was coming down. For all others, there are tents for siesta.

Day 8: Kottapuram to Edaithiruthy

It was 530AM by the time the camp was closed and we were all ready to paddle. With Chinese fishing nets brightly lit, we tracked our way to the main channel that would take us north to our destination for the day was Edathiruthy. 25Kilomters of paddling lay ahead, and these waters are perhaps seeing a boat or kayak for the first time, due to disuse and competition from the roads.

Lowered Chinese fishing nets, near Raj's farm.

Except for the google maps, we really had no clue as to how these waters would support us; are they encroached or are the blocked by hyacinth; these were the fears we had. For time immemorial these waterways were used for transportation. Many of them existed and were used even before the arrival of Vascdagama in the 15th century. Kottapuram was a port of prominence on the western coast and has recorded trade with ancient Rome and China.

Day break, north of Kottapuram.

The waters we were paddling today fed Kottapuram and were primarily used to carry goods before the roads took over. It did not take for the day break and we met folks seeking livelihood on the waterways. The waterways here are thinly populated and hence very less garbage is seen. We moved on and the enquiry about a place to have breakfast grew bigger. It was 8:30AM when we met a bunch of Toddy shop workers on the bank of the river, who asked us to come ashore for there was a hotel close by.

Taking in calories, Shalimar Hotel.

With the owner of Shalimar Hotel.

The place was Sreenarayanapuram, a retired person ran Hotel Shalimar, few hundred meters from the Toddy shop. The husband wife combo ran Shalimar as a family concern; cooking local delicacies and serving customer’s travelling on the National Highway 17, linking Cochin to Mumbai. We took turns in two groups to service our appetite. It was close to 10:00AM when we got back and started paddling north.

Enroute to Edathiruthy.

Enroute to Edathiruthy

Close to Kaipamangalam, the canal branches to the left and is pictures, narrow, verdant green and without a soul around. The place is eerie for the silence it had and the clear water that followed, revealing the vegetation in water and that growing on the banks.

Prasad, posing before the fall!

A coconut tree was almost at five degrees to the water. Prasad could not resist but get on to the coconut tree and as he posed for few pictures, Rakshit went ahead and shook the tree that Prasad lost his balance. South-East of Moonupedika the sun was at its peak and we looked around for any soul who could help us with tender coconut.

Ugran Chetan, with his endless supply of tender coconut.

We finally met Mr. Ugran, who was so happy to get us more than twenty tender coconuts. We had a good break and gave Mr. Ugran and his son's handsome amount for gesture of helping travellers like us. There was a time when travellers banked on people like Mr. Ugran, who would be happy to give one time food and a place to rest. Today's world is far removed from those times; people are cautious, why bother to paint them negative, such is the coverage in the news media.

Water hyacinth, near Katoor.

Prasad, cant resist the water.

The canals got narrower and the vines on the banks were now falling into water forming a narrow passage for the kayaks to follow, the water was cold and trees blocked the sun for shining down. The place looked magical and your heart sank, when you imagined the government tearing all this apart to extend the national waterways to cover the entire state of Kerala. Prasad took a swim as we took a break, the time was now nearing 12:30PM and we had to reach the destination for the School program was lined up at 2:00PM.

The challenge begins, south of Edathiruthy.

We moved on and after a short time, came across one stretch that was blocked with hyacinth. Kaushiq and Mathew lead the way, and we followed so close as to prevent the hyacinth from taking over the path we had fought for. After going hundred meters or so, the situation looked bleak, all of us except the tow in the front, decided to turn back. Kaushiq and Mathew fought hard and slowly disappeared from view.

The house were eight of us pulled ashore.

The eight of us turned back and headed back to call it a day, and landed the kayak at a house situation next to the canal. We informed the Mathrubhumi guys to come and fetch us for the school program. Gopu and Anoop came with lunch and we had a quick lunch before heading for the school program. Others took time to have lunch and rested. The plan was to get a truck that would take all the kayaks by road to the Edathiruthy Church, were we planned to camp for the day. The school function was as in all other places, public officials, school officials, Mathrubhumi officials and us. We finished the school function and came to the house were we had parked the kayaks, our friends were fast asleep, there was news that Kaushiq and  Mathew, had done likewise and the house owner was kind enough to provide the lunch.

Kaushiq, at a home he and Mathew pulled ashore.

We waited for a truck that came to move the kayaks to the Church. The two groups had rested at homes that were few hundred meters apart and treatment they got were much apart. While Mathew and Kaushiq felt welcomed, the othe group was met with closed windows/doors and complete silence. Later Mathew shared how on getting stuck they called out to a gentleman next to the house were they had pulled over and he refused to help. As they felt hungry and enquired about any hotel, they were invited by the home owner for lunch. We can never paint the world black, there are so many good people still around. The facilities at the Church were rudimentary; few of the locals came with advice to keep a close watch on the equipment. We tried in vain to see if a hotel/lodge could be found, but had no luck. The Priest came down to see what the hubla was about, we explained to him what we were doing and the details about the Kayak. The priest was kind enough to give us a hall that was a stone throw away from where the kayaks were parked. We decided that some of us would tent next to the Kayak that night. The area we camped was right next to a busy road, across the road was the Edathiruthy market and hundred meters or so was the canal we were to launch the next day. As night fell, the buzz in the street started melting off, by 9:00PM, the streets were deserted but for the occasional vehicle. The church premises had good number of bathrooms for us to get fresh as some of us pitched tents for the night, while others decided to sleep in the hall that was provided.  We went to the local shop, had Dosha for dinner, We had some information of hyacinth blockages, the first day of the uncharted course was mixed with adventure; the distance of 25KM we covered was not tiring, but the act of stopping midway and then truck the kayaks, all added up to the confusion of the day. Let’s sleep for who knows what waiting tomorrow...with streets dogs barking in the night, we retired!

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